"shop-teacher" (shop-teacher)
06/03/2016 at 19:50 • Filed to: Smashy smashy
1
11|
"shop-teacher" (shop-teacher)
06/03/2016 at 19:50 • Filed to: Smashy smashy | 1
| 11 |
I finally got some time this afternoon to dig into the Roadmaster, and see just how bad the Rallycross damage is. The radiator is FUBARed, as you can see. I’ll also have to replace the oil cooler lines, but it looks like the fans are both fine. There was no damage to the upper or lower fan shrouds.
The AC condenser is also toast, but the AC didn’t work anyways, so that’s no big deal.
The bottom of the core support is pretty jacked up too, but I’m going to try and beat/pull that back into place. I don’t feel like blowing the whole front end apart to change that.
Looks like it’s more time than money to get it fixed. I don’t have any daycare next week, so it’ll have to wait until the following week.
A couple questions for the more experienced wrenchers here. Would you go with a used OEM radiator, or new aftermarket? Also, is it safe for me to remove the AC condenser myself? It’s a R134a system. Thanks!
MM54
> shop-teacher
06/03/2016 at 20:02 |
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Go ahead and pull the condenser, though make sure the sysem is totall discharged first (crack a line or something, though I suspect it’s empty).
As for what radiator, depends on your plans. If it’s a long-term car, I’d go aftermarket/new. If it’s just a beater, used would be okay.
EL_ULY
> shop-teacher
06/03/2016 at 20:02 |
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Aftermarket radiator will probably cost as much or less than a used OEM and will have a warranty. I’d shop for aftermarket (the correct one with cooler line holes and all that)
If the a/c system isn’t charged and you dont plan one using it in the future, rip her out!
As for the core, channel your inner Clarkson and ready the hammers
crowmolly
> shop-teacher
06/03/2016 at 20:09 |
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I’d go with an aftermarket radiator.
While you have all of that off, check the water pump for coolant weepage and the oil pump driveshaft seal for oil leakage.
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shop-teacher
> EL_ULY
06/03/2016 at 20:41 |
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Good call on the warranty! How can I tell if the AC system is charged?
My drawer of Jeremy is ready!
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shop-teacher
> crowmolly
06/03/2016 at 21:02 |
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Good call!
Rust and Dust - Oppositelock Forever
> shop-teacher
06/03/2016 at 21:16 |
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There should be plastic thread on caps on two AC lines (high and low pressure). Remove one of your choosing, and depress the valve beneath briefly (small screwdriver usually works). If shit sprays everywhere, it’s charged.
Call local independent shops in the area, body shops in particular will have a recover/recycling machine. They may be willing to evacuate the system (without nuking the ozone) for little to no charge if you’re deleting AC.
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shop-teacher
> Rust and Dust - Oppositelock Forever
06/03/2016 at 21:24 |
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Gotcha. Thanks!
fryguy
> shop-teacher
06/04/2016 at 09:04 |
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I was there at the moment of “injury” - call me when you are ready to start wrenching.
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EL_ULY
> shop-teacher
06/04/2016 at 09:33 |
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find a service port and press down on the schrader valve
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shop-teacher
> EL_ULY
06/04/2016 at 12:23 |
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Gotcha!
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shop-teacher
> fryguy
06/04/2016 at 12:25 |
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Haha! Will do, I’ll need some help “convincing” the core support back into place.